From Senigallia to the Castles of Arcevia: the treasures of Val Mivola – Part 2 ( by daniele.cc )

Stage 1: reach Ostra

Leaving the sea behind you climb towards the hill. The first stop is at Ostra, which is just 15 km from Senigallia and can be reached in just under 20 minutes by car or an hour by bike. Formerly Montalboddo, Ostra is known for its more than a kilometre long city walls. The narrow streets lead gently uphill to the heart of the town: Piazza dei Martiri, where stands the civic tower with its 33 meters high.

Find out where to stay during this leg of the itinerary, just look around to find the right solution.

Stage 2: Ostra: Teatro la Vittoria

In the heart of the Borgo di Ostra, in Piazza dei Martiri, you can find the Teatro La Vittoria, one of the small historical theatres of the Marche, which preserves all the original part of the ropes, the backdrops and the stage machines of the second half of 1800. The Marche are known as the Land of the Hundred Theaters: as many as the small and large theaters scattered in the various municipalities of the Marche, almost all built in the early nineteenth century by the will of enlightened citizens.

In ancient times the ownership of the theater was condominium and the noble owners of the boxes were gathered in a congregation that organized the shows annually.
The theatrical seasons were usually long and the companies never stopped for less than 15 days.
Every year 30 to 40 performances were performed, which were usually held in conjunction with the festival of the patron (October) and Carnival.

In the second half of the nineteenth century, due to the increase in the economic burden of management, theatrical activity became considerably impoverished.
Activities resumed regularly in 1867, with a reduced number of shows compared to the past. The most represented genres were operetta and acrobatic shows.

It underwent extensive renovations and was reopened on 6 January 1998. Since then it hosts every year plays, children’s theater, concerts and amateur activities.

Stage 2: Not to be missed in Ostra: Chiesa dei Santi Francesco e Lucia

Next to the theater there is the Church of Saints Francis and Lucia which is characterized by a neo-Gothic baroque style.

It was enlarged, both on the facade and on the left side, by an elegant porch, to accommodate a covered market.

The interior develops into a single nave with a barrel vault, and has, in addition to the main altar, four other minor altars, placed left and right and four chapels, one of which is dedicated to the remains of the patron saint Saint Gaudenzio.

Stage 2: Not to be missed in Ostra: Santuario della Madonna della Rosa

A stone’s throw from the center of Ostra, in a charming valley surrounded by hills, existed in time immemorial, an aedicule in which venerated an image of the Virgin, painted on a rough wall, at the foot of which flowed a stream of clear water.

Here stands one of the most beautiful sanctuaries of the Marche, where they have been obtained many “grazie“, witnessed by the countless Ex Voto (gifts and offers) present that, from 1800 until today, refer to the Marian cult, some very particular and moving.

In 1666 a young devotee had brought before the Sacred Image a white lily that remained for months fresh and fragrant. It was like a call: since then devotees and faithful more and more began to flock and thanks of healings and conversions began to multiply.

The simple faith of the devotees attributes particular virtues to the water of the stream that flowed next to it and that today is collected in a cockpit at the foot of the altar of the Madonna and placed at disposal in a small fountain to the right of the chapel.

Stage lunch break

For lunch you can choose whether to enjoy a picnic in the area equipped of the Casa Natale di Santa Maria Goretti or reach the trattoria Galia’.

Located in the green countryside around Corinaldo, this modest dwelling reflects the simplicity and authenticity that have characterized the existence of the Saint. The house is on two levels and has been recently restored. On the ground floor there is a small chapel dedicated to the Holy, in addition to a large room with fireplace which, probably, in the past was a stable for animals.On the first floor there is the dining room, a small room where the Santa was born, furnished with simple and original furniture of the era, and another room that preserves objects belonged to the mother, including the loom for processing wool, that the woman has used for a long time.

Info: www.santamariagoretti.it

Or you can choose the Trattoria Galia‘ where you will find authentic and true foods as they are not easily found.

The food is GREAT, the service slightly “free”, but nice because they make you feel at home and of course you will find many local! They are very good and fast.

Super recommended Wine and Visciole with typical cantucci.

Info: +39 071 7986930 o

Stage 3: Corinaldo:among olive trees and lavender fields

Corinaldo, one of the most charming villages in Italy and awarded the Orange Flag by the Turing Club, is a real postcard of the heart of the Marche.

It is dominated by extensive fields of sunflowers and lavender Natural Green, a farm that extends its five hectares of aromatic rows, transforming this area into a true fragment of Provence in the heart of the Marche. Here, agriculture and art combine to create a unique dialogue.

The historic center can be explored in a couple of hours, but the views to capture within its walls of the fifteenth century are numerous.

Info: www.corinaldoturismo.it

Stage 3 Corinaldo: il Pozzo della Polenta

The most famous point is the Piaggia, a staircase of a hundred steps that culminates with the famous Pozzo della Polenta.

Continuing along the staircase, there is a small tavern with breathtaking views, the Nova Taberna, managed by a young couple of innkeepers where you can taste typical dishes such as passatelli with asparagus and rabbit in porchetta accompanied by wild vegetables.

Info: www.corinaldoturismo.it

Stage 3: Corinaldo: Museum with the Civic Art Collection Claudio Ridolfi

At the top of the Piaggia stands the Museo con la Civica Raccolta d’Arte Claudio Ridolfi, dedicated to sacred art and enriched by a vast collection of paintings, precious reliquaries, altarpieces and historical relics.

Stage 4: Trecastelli the Nori de' Nobili Art Collection

A short distance from Corinaldo you can discover in Trecastelli the Nori de’ Nobili art collection, a permanent exhibition that celebrates the artist from Pesaro through works that reflect influences of Ligabue, De Chirico, Dali and Picasso. This is another corner of Marche that amazes because in Trecastelli you would never think of finding such a well-kept and modern museum space.

Modern because it opened only in 2012, beautiful for the works on display by the artist Nori De’ Nobili that do not leave indifferent. It is captured by the personal history of the artist, marked by mental illness, intimately enclosed in the paintings.

Info: www.museonoridenobili.it

Stage 5: Visit to the Municipality of Ostra Vetere and visit of the old town

Continuing for another ten minutes by car, you reach Ostra Vetere, the symbol of the village, the dome that protects all the ostraveterani and of course the bell tower of Santa Maria di Piazza, a masterpiece of the neo-Gothic Marche. There is no doubt, I would recognize Ostra Vetere from every street in Val Mivola and from every hill of the Marche region thanks to the Church of Santa Maria della Piazza. The dome and the bell tower of Santa Maria di Piazza are a monumental excellence unique in its kind. The latter, over 51 meters high, overlooks together with the neo-Gothic dome made of reinforced concrete almost 42 high, the entire village.

Stage 5: Ostra Vetere: Terra di Montenovo Museum Centre - former convent of Santa Lucia

The museum complex TERRA DI MONTENOVO is located in the former monastery of Santa Lucia that from the late Middle Ages until the nineteenth century hosted the Order of the Poor Clares. Following the suppression of religious orders by Napoleon Bonaparte, the building became part of the appanage of the Viceroy of Italy, Eugenio Beaurhnais.

Back in the mid-nineteenth century full possession of the Papal States, it was sold to the Marulli family of Ancona who made it the headquarters of their farm with laboratories for the production of oil, wine and silkworm breeding.

Acquired by the Municipality of Ostra Vetere in 1999 was the subject of a restoration project for its functional reuse by allocating (in part) a cultural container.

Today it houses on the first floor the Museo Civico Parrocchiale Beata Crocifissa Satellico with works owned in part municipal and part parish. Among the most noteworthy works are: an oil on canvas representing Christ and Saint Peter on the lake of Tiberias, attributed to Christopher Roncalli; two polychrome terracotta tiles depicting a Nativity and a Deposition of the fifteenth century.

The library houses numerous volumes, about 4000, books of Philosophy, Mathematics, Canon Law, Civil, Rhetoric Grammar, Medicine, Theology, Poetry, Sacred History and Forbidden Books.

Stage 5: Ostra Vetere: Il chiostro di San Francesco

This magnificent cloister is located near the former Convent of Church of San Francesco al Marcatale; for centuries, the complex was the heart of the settlement of the Franciscan friars in Ostra Vetere. Currently, it serves as a gathering place for the inhabitants of Ostra Vetere, who find relief from the heat under the arches decorated with frescoes of great value.

Info: www.valmivola.com

Stage 6 Ostra: Dinner at the Cantinella Restaurant

Recommended by some locals who often frequent this restaurant and are very fond of it, we have been in Ostra where, for more than fifty years, The Cantinella is an icon of authenticity, excellence and innovation in the kitchen. This place has always maintained a deep bond with the Italian traditions. Choosing la Cantinella means opting for high quality products, selected from trusted suppliers, and enjoy recipes reinterpreted with creativity and passion.

Choose The Cantinella, with its rich heritage of experiences, is synonymous with living a truly authentic culinary experience and traditional Italian.

In his menu stand out traditional dishes of great value as the fresh pasta made by hand, the mixed fried meat and ice cream flame. However, the culinary offer is always evolving, with the goal of adapting and responding to the various needs of customers.

Info: lacantinella.net

tel. +39 071 68081

Concluding the second day of this rich and varied tour, you will have been able to completely immerse yourself in the traditions, history and gastronomic culture of the Marche, a region that continues to surprise and delight its visitors at every step.

Read more: www.valmivola.com